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Rob's Speaker Stands

(page 3)
  
First drill all holes in the tops and bottoms as noted in drawing plans. A use of a drill press is highly recommended as to keep all holes perpendicular to your surfaces being drilled. You only need a 3/8" and a ¼" drill bit.

Next, take your 3/8" threaded rods and install a nut on each one about an inch down from the top and insert them into the 2 steel top plate 3/8" holes from the bottom side up through the top. Attach nuts to the top side and tighten. This will hold your rods in place at a 90 degree angle to the plates. Weld, or have someone weld for you the bottom nuts to the rod and to the plates. It is imperative that the nuts and rods are welded together to the plate as for the rod not to move when tightened later. Do NOT weld the top side. After the bottom side is welded, remove the top nuts and cut off the remaining protruding rod flush to the top of the plate with a hacksaw and grind down the rod so it becomes flush with plate. This is where the speakers will sit so you do not want anything sticking up. Paint the plate with a good rust preventative paint on all sides especially where the rods are welded to prevent rusting. I used semi flat black spray paint.

 
Your bottoms can be made from a lot of different material. I used a high quality fiberboard material called Medex. It is used for billboards and also by cabinetmakers. You can probably get some scrap pieces from a cabinetmaker for a very small charge. I had mine rounded off from the tops with a ¼" router to smooth things out. Now you can take your bottoms and paint them to your tastes to match your room. I painted mine with a black and white speckle Zolatone finish, as this is what my entertainment center is painted with, so it matches nicely. I'm a sucker for Zolatone. I really dig that speckle finish.
After the bottoms are dried, you can install the eight ¼" allen stainless bolts from the top into the bottoms and install the washers and nuts and tighten accordingly. You may add spikes later if desired.
 
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