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"Improving |
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audio system |
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sound, one |
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tweak at a time" |
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Disclaimer |
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| Audio Tweaks - Tweak Ref.
264 |
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| Positioning spikes for optimum sonics |
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| 264 |
Martin Stephenson |
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| By now, all but the "willfully ignorant techno-beanies" understand
that spikes under a speaker are a good thing (Doug Purl, are you out
there?!). But I get the impression few pay attention to the details
such as -where- to place the spikes and -how many- to use.
Because I plan to spike my speakers, I've done numerous tests in the
last few days to find the optimum location, and I find the results
interesting, as in "where the spikes sit under the speaker makes a
night and day difference, which affects everything you listen to". (I
did my tests on one speaker using cones for the sake of convenience,
but the principles will apply to two speakers using spikes). Early on,
I quickly eliminated the prospect of four spikes - three points do
work better. So unfortunately, this means that everyone that has
speaker stands supporting the speakers at four points will have some
work to do! (The work the stand designers *should* have already
researched in the first place...).
All tests done with two spikes in back, one in front. Tests also
included the configuration of two spikes in front, one in back. This
seems to make a lot of sense, since the drivers are in the front and
better supported, and it gave interesting results, in a way, a
sonic reversal of the characteristics of 2-back/1-front. It's a sound
that had solidity in the bass and a crisp midrange/highs, not
dissimilar to the 2-back/1-front configuration situated away from the
edges (but not quite that either). However, it gives a sonic character
that is more "hi-fi", more 'boxy' (a more narrow soundstage), and
timbral colorations that make it ultimately further away from the
ideal of neutrality. So that idea was discarded, and all following
comments are from 2-back/1-front setup. |
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| Sound: With the steel cones at the very extreme edges, the sound is
quite natural and fluid. Timbres are more accurately reproduced
(showing the character of each instrument better), instruments are
better separated, dynamic contrasts are well defined, vocal
characteristics appear natural (if not particularly prominent), and
the speaker sounds more "open".
As you move the spikes inward, the sound takes on a certain
characteristic and the effect is exagerrated the further inward you go
(although you can only go inward to a certain degree before the
support becomes unstable). Tones, for example, take on more of a
similar coloration. However, some very interesting things happen which
might make someone want to choose a location more inward than the
extreme edge. Bass gets more solid and noticeable, the attack on
dynamics gets stronger (ie. the strike of a cymbal is better felt),
midrange tones have more 'bloom', vocals have more presence. All in
all, it makes for a more "exciting" sound. But is it 'correct'? I'll
leave that up to the individual's ears to decide, but my opinion is
that it is a coloration, albeit a pleasant one. My feeling is that if
you have speakers more on the low end of the audiophile scale, you may
wish to go inward a bit - they're already coloured, what the hey. If
you have very accurate reproducers and don't dare do anything to
possibly upset the timbral balance you paid so much for, have the
spikes at/near the extreme edges. |
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| I will choose to place my spikes near the edges, but I do not conclude
that this is necessarily the best place. I believe the other
'real/viable' choice is to locate the spike a little inward from the
edge (1cm or 1 inch or so, depending on the size of your speaker. This
doesn't exactly give you "the best of both worlds", but it may be
close enough to that. Going too far inward can produce a seductive
sound with solid bass, but I don't recommend it, as it appears to be
too far from neutral. In any case, all three of these resonance points
should be equal distances from the edge of the speaker bottom.
If you're using spikes and not cones, and you wish to choose one of
the above configurations to optimize the sound of your spike/speaker
coupling, you will need to either drill 3 new holes in your speaker
stand top plate, or the speaker bottom at the appropriate places (of
course if the speaker support is much smaller than the speaker bottom,
you may not be able to optimize your spikes!). For this, you will of
course need Target's speaker stand spike kit (I know they can be a bit
difficult to locate, so if you have trouble finding them in your area,
drop me an email and I'll send you a kit at a reduced price, while I
still have a few packages on hand). If you're drilling holes in the
speaker bottom to fit the spike, of course you would drill at least
1cm from any edge (or more if your sidewalls are thicker), so as not to
damage the structural integrity of the speaker. |
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